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Load Selections with Channels in Photoshop

Owen Shifflett
Owen Shifflett, ON THE TOPIC OF General
Oct28 10

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I was working on a project the other day that took advantage of a technique very similar to the one used in the image above, and I realized that I haven’t seen any tutorials online that really explained this process, so I figured I would share it in the case that you’re ever interested in achieving a similar effect. It’s also a chance to go over exactly what channels and load selection can do for you as a designer working in Photoshop.

Channel controls aren’t just for color/plate separation. We can wield the power of channel selection to capture elements of an image—very similar to creating paths—and apply them to our design. This can come in handy when you want to do anything from knocking out a white background from a logo, to creating true monotone images right in a RGB PSD file. The uses are endless. Load Selection, on the other hand, is a slightly more hidden feature, though just as powerful as Channels. You might know Load Selection through the use of paths you’ve created in Photoshop or imported over from Illustrator.  Loading a Selection in tandem with a Channel works pretty much the same way. With that said, on to the tutorial.

Step 1 image Choose a background to your liking. I’m using a shoddy old wall here to imply that maybe this deer here will eventually look like it was spray-painted on the side of an abandoned building. Then go ahead and choose your image that you want to manipulate. Cut it out with the lasso or define a path, whichever works better for you (Step 1). After you’re done, make sure that the background is completely removed as using a mask won’t work in this situation.

Step 2 & 3 image Next we’re going to want to remove all the color from out image (Step 2). Channel selections only work in black and white so removing the color here will help us prep the image for use. Do a quick Image > Adjustments > Desaturate. Now that we’ve got a nice gray scale image we’re going to want to adjust the levels of the image so that the spectrum of the black and white in the photo are smaller, literally removing some elements of grey to get a higher contrasted image (Step 3). This can be done by going to Image > Adjust > Levels. Let’s bring the sliders for both the black and white input levels closer together. This is not an exact science; the way to get the best results is to test a few different options before settling on a final setting.

Steps 4 & 5 image Now comes the fun part; let’s Channel Select this deer. Select your whole image, copy it, then hide the layer. We’re doing this because you no longer need this version of your image, but it’s nice to have a backup in case you want to use it again for something later.  Click on your Channels tab (usually located next to your layers tab). Once you’re viewing you channels palette, create a new layer and give it a name. It’s good practice to name your layers, especially in the channels tab where it’s harder to distinguish between selections, but it’s not required. Now that you have your new layer, go ahead and paste your copied image into it (Step 4). With the image still selected, go to Image > Adjustment > Invert (Step 5).  Inverting the image is a crutial step because what we are basically creating is a mirrored image of the deer. When we later load the selection and fill it with a color, we want the white areas to fill and the black areas of the image to be ignored. If we didn’t invert the image, you would end up with what looks like an xray of a deer, which is wrong ... unless that was the effect you were intending. So, click off your selection and then click on the "RGB Thumbnail" under the Channels tab to take you back to the workable area of the Photoshop document. Now you’ve got your deer tucked away, ready to be used at any time.

Steps 6 & 7 image And that time is now. Go to your Nav and do Select > Load Selection from the menu. Under the source zone, click the channel drop-down and select your newly-minted selection (Step 6). Leave the Operation zone as "New Selection," then click ok. You should now have an running outline of your image on the screen. Choose a color from the color picker, go up and do an Edit > Fill.  Click "ok" and you should have a sweet looking image staring back at you. At this point, I usually duplicate the layer and try a few layer effects (e.g. multiply) until I get exactly the right color saturation I’m looking for. 

Final Notes
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I wrapped up the final image by doing this same technique again with a hacked together landscape photo and some clouds for extra awesome effectiveness.

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Here’s an example of how this technique works more like a stamp then like a blend. It actually retains solid colors so that the layer doesn’t get muddied by the content below it.

Give it a try yourself, you’ll be surprised at the interesting results you can get by changing it up, applying different effects, or layering elements on top of each other. Here is the source psd file with all the layers broken out if you’d like to recreate this tutorial from scratch. Download the Source PSD.

Kyle Adams said on 10/28 at 01:32 PM

couldn’t you obtain similar effects from just adjusting the blending options of the layer, and applying a color overlay? thus leaving it as untouched as possible?

Owen Shifflett said on 10/28 at 03:17 PM

Applying a blending method, such as multiply, is a little different than the above technique.

When you multiply an image the black areas of a b/w image become opaque, the grey areas become transparent to the percentage of black in each pixel, and the white areas become transparent. Since the original image had lots of grey tones through-out we would have ended up with an image that was similar but produced bleed-through to all the layers underneath it, which I was trying to avoid.

In a sense the technique above produces more of a stamp than a blended image. The color of the deer layer isn’t changed due to the color of the layers underneath it.

I did end up applying a multiply to the image, to allow the background to peak though, in the example. The overarching tutorial (at least I hope) is more about removing white (or black) from an image without having to worry about bleed-through.

I’m updating the post with an image to show how this works differently than just applying a multiply. Thanks for the feedback!

Kyle Adams said on 10/28 at 03:20 PM

awesome man. thanks for the feedback.
any chance you could upload the source file for this so we could dissect it ourselves?

Victoria Pickering said on 10/28 at 03:31 PM

Thanks for posting such a detailed tutorial.  I’m curious about how different the final image would look if you used a more refined method of producing the grayscale, like the Channel Mixer, rather than Desaturate.  My guess is that it would produce a more realistic look for the deer but would not be consistent with the overall feel of the piece and the fit with the background - so that for what you wanted to produce, a less refined technique for producing the grayscale works better.

Owen Shifflett said on 10/28 at 03:54 PM

No problem Kyle, I’ve included a link to the PSD at the end of the post. I’ll have to remember to do this in the future.

Victoria, I actually haven’t played around much with the Channel Mixer, but I’m keen on learning more about it. I can see what your saying. It looks like you can get better highs and lows resulting in a crisper image. I’m definitely going to play around with this, thanks for the tip.

Kyle Adams said on 10/28 at 03:57 PM

thanks a ton man. you’re a great person! haha.

any chance in the future the site will host members and such? I love this site. just the layout and style reflects my exact taste in what I love. water color and textures, so beautiful.

Owen Shifflett said on 10/28 at 04:15 PM

Thanks for your interest in our work, glad you like it! The Inspire blog is an extension of Viget Labs so currently only the designers here have the ability to post. But if you have any ideas that you’d like to discuss or topics you’d like us to touch on, feel free to contact us!

Kyle Adams said on 10/28 at 04:17 PM

well, not to much - just looking for a way to quicken the comment posting process without having to reenter my email and URL everytime, haha.

JohnPL said on 10/29 at 05:08 PM

this tutorial is about nice effect, but i cant say it explain that effect, i can’t undestand many parts of it (im not native speaker), ..meaby its my problem, but i am just wondering… what is the reason of making this as text - not as a video and i cant find any reason, time for preparing this is longer that a 2 minute video, understaning of video is much better… i still cant find the reason for traditional tutorials form ‘90

jive said on 10/30 at 01:04 PM

Don’t underestimate how long a video tutorial can take. Some people can wing it, but often it doesn’t turn out that great because they forget to mention what keys they are pressing or they make lots of mistakes during it and dont edit them out. To do a video tutorial you have to have all your stuff planned out and ready to go (that includes your speech). Then you have to setup a video player of some sort (flash, quicktime), edit it with an intro/ending, encode it and what not.

Too often I’ve seen tutorials on Youtube, so blurry they are useless or so small I cant see what is going on. I think text tutorials and image are just as good for most topics, it just depends how complex something is.

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